The Albariño grape is distinguished from others in that it grows in very small clusters and contains a high sugar content and high acidity that give the wine softness yet freshness. The Martin Códax Winery (named for a 13th century Galician minstrel whose preserved manuscript is in the Morgan Library) is essentially a co-op founded by a group of grape growers in 1986. Luciano Amoedo, one of the founders of the co-op, is the winery’s enologist and head of R&D in conjunction with local universities. The wine is straw-colored and bright with a hint of sparkle. There’s a special intensity and elegance to the aroma which is reminiscent of fresh herbs and semi-ripe apples. The palate shows good body and a freshness of fruit that is alluring. At only 12% alcohol, it is balanced and refreshing. This beauty pairs magnificently with scallops, mussels, and lobsters, but it is quite at home with all seafood. The co-op also makes the slightly sweet Burgáns Albariño that we no longer carry, as well as a barrel-fermented Organistrum.